Riser Construction

The riser was constructed using 2x6s with 2x4s on top. This yields about 7+ inches of height. After adding a top sheet of plywood, the total height is about 8 inches. This figure shows a close-up of one section with an attachment to the concrete. The riser is not directly attached to the concrete. Instead, four wood blocks with two bolts are anchored to the concrete and positioned to hold the riser. This image shows one of these blocks. A moisture barrier was placed under the 2x6s.

This image shows the riser with its top layer of 2x4s and fiberglass insulation packed between the studs to dampen the interior. By the way, the framing is held together with wood screws instead of nails. I felt that using screws would provide a more solid foundation. Some builders might have filled the interior with sand, which is very inert and prevents the riser from vibrating, but insulation was easier, and at the time, I thought it was adequate. It could have been possible to add some openings in the riser and use the insulation as a bass trap, but this seemed like added complexity with a small (if any) benefit.

This image shows the riser now covered with 3/4-inch plywood. Since the riser is at most 8-9 inches tall, it was not necessary to add a stair step, which slightly simplified the construction. However, as stated elsewhere, the riser height should have been 10-12 inches tall, and in that case, a stair step probably would have been necessary. Instead of making the platform a rectangle, I cut the corners at a 45-degree angle, as seen in the photo. This was done partly because it looked better, but more importantly, to reduce what I thought might be a tripping hazard when people walked around the corners of the platform.

The riser was designed to accommodate three home theater recliners. Initially, it was intended to be open on all sides, but during the early construction phase, the decision was made to build a short half-wall for several reasons. 

1. The short wall would more clearly separate the area between the wall and the door, creating the feel of an aisle. 

2. The wall conceals the back of the theater seats, providing a cleaner appearance when entering the theater. 

3. A power outlet was added midway, hiding the power cords of the recliners. 

4. The top shelf of the half-wall could serve as a place to set the remote control for the theater. 

However, the wall also introduced a minor issue: occasionally, items on the shelf would fall behind the seats, making retrieval difficult.

In many home theaters, the riser is completely covered in carpet; however, as shown in the photo, this riser was designed to have carpet only on the top center, where the seating will be. The riser features oak trim framing the outside edge and around the base. The same oak trim is added to the top of the short wall to create a small shelf. Baseboard molding was installed around the bottom of the wall to match the room's existing baseboard molding. Although not visible in the image, the back of the half-wall was painted grey, and some picture frame molding was added for aesthetic purposes. A professional installer set up the carpet island on the riser (I don't do carpet). The only remaining task is to add the three recliners.

Most home theater risers feature lighting to help viewers navigate the seating and avoid tripping over the riser. For this design, I added a groove around the edge of the riser to accommodate a rope light. The addition of the rope light also serves as a pleasant accent to the riser. Even though it was not necessary, the rope light extends around all three sides of the riser. This provides attractive illumination on all sides of the riser and allows me to conceal the power outlet for the rope lights in the back corner of the riser.