top of page
FinishedTheaterBack.jpg

Sound Isolation

Soundproofing and acoustically treating a room both involve controlling sound in some way. Many online sources attempt to merge these two topics, but the techniques and goals are sufficiently different that it is better to address them separately. Conflicting information from various "experts" adds to the confusion surrounding this subject. This page provides background on solutions to mitigate sound transmission and discusses the options employed in this room. I may have been somewhat negligent in designing the isolation adequately. If I have overlooked anything, please let me know.

Sound Isolation Methods and Tradeoffs

SoundIsolation

Last Updated: 09/02/2024

Soundproofing and acoustically treating a room both involve controlling sound in some way. Many online sources treat these two topics as one, but the techniques and goals are sufficiently different for me to treat them separately. This page covers possible solutions to thwart sound transmission and discusses the options used in this room.​

 

Soundproofing a room involves adding elements to minimize the sound energy that leaves or enters the room. Acoustic treatment, however, consists of designing the room's interior to create optimum sound clarity throughout the listening area. Acoustic treatments may, in fact, slightly reduce sound escaping the room, but the amount of reduction is most likely negligible.

​

This section covers the background and decision process for sound isolation, and a separate section deals with room acoustics design tradeoffs.

​

Before going too far, I needed to determine the desired level of sound isolation. Going for near-silence would be expensive and probably require shrinking the room on each surface to increase the isolation. So, my overall goal was fairly modest. That goal was to obtain reasonable sound isolation while maintaining relatively low costs and being relatively simple to implement.   

​​

Before discussing what was implemented, it is helpful to summarize the background information that drove the eventual decisions. ​Sound isolation techniques can be grouped into four main categories.

​

  1. Decoupling/Isolation: Sound travels more easily through solid materials like wood or drywall than through air. Isolating the theater room by ensuring building materials around the room do not physically contact the rest of the building effectively prevents the sound from leaving (or entering) the room. In practice, complete isolation is challenging, so minimizing contact points and using dampening materials for those contact points (see #4) minimizes sound transmission.

  2. Adding Mass: Very simply, making an object heavier, such as a wall, will allow it to absorb more sound energy and reduce sound transmission. The added mass takes more energy to vibrate, and this mass will help convert the vibrational energy into heat. A good example is using a double layer of thick drywall (sheetrock). Another example, mass-loaded vinyl (MLV), is mentioned, but some don't consider it as effective as other options.

  3. Absorption:  Even though air is not the most efficient medium for sound transmission, it is desirable to make it worse by filling air space with materials that can take the air's vibrational energy and convert it to heat. Fiberglass insulation, or Rockwool, is effective at doing this.

  4. Dampening: This concept is similar to absorption but typically involves placing elastic material between other construction materials. These elastic materials convert vibrational energy to heat, reducing sound transmission. Various elastic compounds, such as acoustic putty/caulk and green glue, fall into this category.

​

​The above sound isolation techniques have typically been combined to achieve good results. Figure 1 shows a few of the typical applications of these methods for building walls and ceilings. This is not an exhaustive list. This figure shows a top-down cross-section view of 4 walls. Also, this figure does not show that the wall's back side may have added soundproofing. These examples are arranged from less sound blocking on the left to more blocking on the right. All of these methods have superior sound blocking compared to standard drywall.

​​​​​​​​​​​​

Top down view of 4 walls showing different sound isolation techniques.

Figure 1. Some Wall Decoupling Methods for Sound Isolation

I did not choose to use the Isolation Clips and Channels for my home theater primarily due to the added installation complexity. In hindsight, this was a mistake, especially for the ceiling, since using clips and channels while construction is more complex provides enhanced isolation. Figure 2 provides some additional details on clips and channel construction.  The clips have a dampening rubber piece, providing good sound isolation between the drywall and the wood framing.  

​

The final design applied several techniques on different walls and the ceiling.

​

Side view of resilient clips on a wall, and a detailed view of how the clip and channel connect.

Figure 2. Example Side-View of and detailed view of Isolation Clips and Channels

​​​​

Isolation Design for My Home Theater

​

Figure 3 provides a visual summary of isolation techniques that were planned and built.  Below are a few points regarding these choices. 

​​​

  • Hobby Room Wall—This was constructed with a double-stud framed wall, finished with double 5/8 in. drywall with green glue, and the wall cavity was filled with fiberglass insulation. (Note: 5/8 in. drywall provides a little better sound isolation than standard half in. drywall.) The double-stud construction was not as isolated as possible, as there was a slight separation between stud rows, and the top plates were connected. Nevertheless, there was good sound isolation for mid-high frequencies, but I would have liked better decoupling for bass frequencies.

  • Ceiling—Mistakes were made on this surface. The ceiling was covered with the same two layers of 5/8 in. drywall and a layer of green glue. The recessed lighting, which required holes in the drywall, should have had sound-blocking backer boxes, but these were (stupidly) omitted. This is probably one of several causes for more sound leakage through the ceiling than desired.

  • Utility Room Wall—The goal of this wall is to keep noise from the utility room from entering the theater.  (e.g., noise from water heater and furnace).  This wall was again constructed with two layers of 5/8 in. drywall with a middle layer of green glue.  The result was a very significant noise reduction.  The furnace and water heater are barely audible in a hushed home theater.  

  • ​Other Walls—From a sound isolation perspective, the front and back walls were not too critical. These walls used the same two layers of drywall and green glue, which seems adequate.

​

Another soundproofing task was to seal the backside of all the AC outlets, speakers, and other outlets again using acoustic sealant/caulk to minimize sound transmission. I used acoustic sealant and caulk to fill small gaps between drywall pieces.

​

Top-down view of room floor plan with notations on sound isolation for each surface.

Figure 3. Final Isolation Plan

Sound-Blocking Door

​

​The original door to the theater was a contractor-grade hollow-core door, which is slightly better than no door. So, a couple of options were explored to reduce sound transmission through the door.

​

  1. Solid Door—Replace the original door with solid wood (oak). This is a simple door replacement using a solid oak door. It is a lower-cost solution with a significant improvement to sound isolation, but it is not nearly as good as the next two options.

  2. Double Door—This approach uses two solid doors, one opening out and the other opening into the room. This “doubles” the isolation and more than doubles the cost.

  3. Acoustic Door—This option involves purchasing a special door designed to block sound. These doors are usually used in commercial settings. The main drawback is the expense. These doors are typically costly,>$2,000.

​

In keeping with the emphasis on budget, I chose the simple solid wood door for this room. It provided decent sound reduction and was affordable.

 

In addition to selecting the door, it is helpful to seal any air gaps around and beneath it to further improve isolation, usually by adding weather stripping around the door frame and a tight-fitting threshold.

​

A Few Sound Isolation Online References

​​

  1. soundproofingcompany.com’s soundproofing101—Detailed information on sound isolation techniques and products.

  2. Noise_Reduction_Coefficient—wiki page with definitions of NRC/SAA.

  3. ASTM-C423—Standard Test Method for Sound Absorption and Sound Absorption Coefficients by the Reverberation Room Method.

  4. HUD (pdf)—Information on Sound Transmission Class

​​

  • LinkedIn
  • Reddit
  • Bluesky-Logo_Icon
  • Facebook

(Not all social media links are set up yet)

Website Footer Logo for LNWAKEY.COM

GENERAL DISCLAIMER:

The information provided on this website is for general informational purposes only. All content is provided in good faith, however, we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability, or completeness of any information on the site. The DIY projects and advice provided on this website are based on personal experience and should not be considered professional advice. Always exercise caution and consult with a professional if you are unsure about any aspect of your project. This website may contain links to external websites that are not provided or maintained by or in any way affiliated with us. Please note that we do not guarantee the accuracy, relevance, timeliness, or completeness of any information on these external websites.

bottom of page